Next to indigo-dyed denim, few fabrics or patterns are as synonymous with American workwear as hickory stripe, sometimes called railroad stripe. Recognizable by its distinctive blue-and-white stripes, hickory stripe has a storied past, worn by railroad workers, farmers, and tradespeople for over a century. From its practical origins to its resurgence in contemporary fashion (notably hickory stripe chore coats and jackets by L.C. King, imogene + willie, Taylor Stitch, Levi’s, and others) this classic pattern remains a testament to durability and style.
Origins: The Birth of a Durable Fabric
The origins of hickory stripe date back to the late 19th century when “overall suits” (overalls) came onto the scene and workwear was designed first and foremost for function. The name “hickory stripe” likely derives from the toughness of hickory wood, symbolizing the fabric’s rugged durability (a heavy seersucker). Early workwear manufacturers sought materials such as denim that could withstand the harsh conditions of physical labor while remaining comfortable enough for all-day wear. Hickory stripe’s tightly woven cotton construction fit the bill, offering resistance to wear and tear.
As industrialization expanded in the late 1800s, the demand for specialized workwear grew. Factories and railroads employed thousands of workers who required durable clothing, and textile manufacturers responded by producing sturdy fabrics like denim and hickory stripe.
The Railroad Connection: Engineering a Signature Look
Hickory stripe became inextricably linked with the American railroad industry in the early 20th century. Railroad engineers, brakemen, and conductors wore hickory stripe overalls while operating their coal-fired locomotives. In 1920, to help promote its hickory stripe overalls, the OshKosh Overall Company (formerly OshKosh Clothing and Manufacturing Co.) began making engineer caps in the pattern. (You can find a brief company history here.) The famous hickory stripe engineer cap became a defining piece of railroad worker attire, further cementing the fabric’s place in American labor history.
Railroad companies often provided employees with hickory stripe garments as part of their standard workwear. These garments were not only practical but also served as an informal uniform, creating a recognizable look for those who kept America’s rail system running.
Workwear Goes Mainstream: The Rise of Iconic Brands
Several workwear brands helped establish hickory stripe as a staple of durable clothing. Companies like Lee, Carhartt, OshKosh B’Gosh, and Pointer Brand produced hickory stripe overalls, jackets, and chore coats that became trusted uniforms for blue-collar workers across industries. Lee, in particular, played a significant role in popularizing the pattern when it introduced hickory stripe overalls in the early 1900s.
One of the most interesting expansions of hickory stripe came with children’s workwear. Brands like OshKosh B’Gosh recognized that many children, especially those growing up on farms and in rural communities, needed sturdy clothes for outdoor play and chores. The company introduced miniature versions of classic work overalls in hickory stripe, often designed to match their parents’ workwear (again, if interested, see the company history here). These garments became a staple of American childhood in the mid-20th century, combining durability with a touch of nostalgia.
A Fashion Revival: From Function to Style
While hickory stripe’s prominence in industrial workwear waned with the rise of synthetic fabrics and modern uniforms, it never disappeared. Instead, it found new life in fashion.
Heritage workwear brands and Japanese designers, including OrSlow, Engineered Garments, and Kapital, embraced hickory stripe as a stylish nod to Americana. Denim enthusiasts and streetwear aficionados began incorporating hickory stripe into their wardrobes, wearing it as both a nostalgic callback and a statement of rugged authenticity.
In the United States, brands like Railcar Fine Goods and L.C. King (Pointer Brand) continue to manufacture traditional hickory stripe garments, keeping the legacy alive for workwear enthusiasts and collectors. Meanwhile, collaborations between high-end fashion brands and workwear manufacturers have introduced hickory stripe to a new generation, blending utility with contemporary style.
The Legacy Lives On
Today, hickory stripe remains a beloved part of both vintage workwear and contemporary fashion. Whether worn as a durable work jacket, a stylish chore coat, or a classic engineer cap, it continues to represent a rich history of craftsmanship, resilience, and timeless design.
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